PLAYING WITH DEATH

Spending time in Central Mexico one is struck by figures of death, some suggesting these are central to Mexican culture. One can debate the second argument but the first is very clear. Entering a restaurant to discover large clay images of death figures located as though to entertain the eaters. As the day of the dead approaches discovering bread for sale with simple images of bones on the crusts, others sell elaborate pieces for consumption or display. A whole street is given over to the sale of sweet images of death as items of decoration or consumption - men sitting up in coffins, a skull with your name on it, skulls on sticks creating a sucker or a skeleton at the beach. A local town that fashions small simple images of Catrinas* (death like figures) as well as large, elaborate and expensive images. One imagines these are used as decorative pieces in the home and indeed one becomes drawn to them, soon you have purchased several for your own home. Going to graves and watching people decorate ofrendas for their ancestors and on occasion using papier mache skeletons on which they places the cloths of the dead one. This strange person sits with the family all night observing the beautiful flowers, candles, many items of food and perhaps his favorite alcohol. Attending ceremonial dances to see children dressed in skeletal images as entertainment. Often seeing masks used in dances that show a face half alive and half dead or just a death mask. These are only a few examples.

To clarify, when a person dies the mood in Mexico is similar to that in most societies. There is crying, wailing, dressing in black and processions to the grave with the family in grief. That is to say, actual death is no laughing matter.

So what are all these figures, which some would see as morbid, about? I have struggled with this for some time and the other night felt something came together. I was watching a brief program about flamenco music and, while I didn’t see the entire thing, a teacher of the dance said a few words that jolted me. First she said that much Spanish music has death as an undertone and this enters the dance. She was standing with her arms hanging at each side and with her hands gave a gesture of flicking something away. She said in a musical way - “Death is here, death is there. it is everywhere. You have to play with it.” She went on to say very briefly that this is also what the bullfight is about. I was planning on attending a bullfight last year and so was able to spend a great deal of time with a friend who was very knowledgeable of the fight. The job of the torero was to put him (or her) self in danger, and, in the most artistic fashion possible face the danger, making it as much like a beautiful dance as possible - flick it away.

Most western cultures recognize death of course but there is a struggle to not talk about, to not see it, to protect your children from it and so on. But we don’t, as a culture, make fun of it or tease it. It is only when it comes very close to us that we have to name it. Such as when we escape a situation when we could easily have been killed. Images of death at halloween are seen as scary rather than as funny - death is at my door and yet I am alright! An acquaintance who lives in Mexico (he is from Russia) reported that he hates all the death stuff and he thinks it holds Mexico back. Playing with death brings your attention to the possibility of death he thought and consequently one does not have long-term visions. One needs to pretend death was not “here and there” and act as though you would live forever. I’m not sure I agree entirely, but it is another view.
PS. There is another tradition in Mexico, and perhaps other areas, and this is the painting of pictures of dead babies. Arte de Mexico has published an issue on this.
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* A catrin is a name for a city dweller and around 1900 a Mexican illustrator began to publish images of the wealthy urban folk in their fine dresses and suits, but appearing as dressed skeletons. These images became very popular and you now find images of every class and occupation.

DISREMEMBERING

Just returned to Canada after six months in central Mexico. Is this culture shock? Jet lag? Lack of adjustment? I’m not sure, but it does feel strange. I looked out the window this morning and could see nobody, the only sound that of a lone airplane high above the city. Occasionally someone would emerge from a neighboring house, enter their car and drive quietly away. Where are the church bells? Where are the children? Why does the traffic sound so muted? Where are the signs of life in this community?

The contrast with Mexico is stark. From our Mexican house we hear church bells most of the day, hundreds of school children come and go by our door (often ringing the bell) and the sounds of community life (to say nothing of the dogs and chickens) are present from early in the morning until dark. The neighborhood streets are always crowded as most people walk on errands and old people sit in their doorways watching the world go by.

What does it mean to adjust to life in Canada? We often say that we must get used to things here, we must adjust or get on with things. However, I believe what we must do is disremember Mexico. I begin to wonder if this is what immigrants go through. Eventually they forget what life in the home country was like. Perhaps they pick up on one or two local things and fixate on them as representing previous community - perhaps smells from a local restaurant or sounds of their native language. These small things are of course related to home but only in a distant way and when they do return home they are shocked by how different things are from what they carried in their memories. They have disremembered their native land and cling to a few false images which are more indicative of their new environment than of their home.

Having been back a few days I am also struck by features of the people: they appear so old, new mothers look like they could be grandmothers, young people are so tall.

After a month or two the weather warms and there is indeed street life in Canada. The boardwalks along the waterfront are filled with people - although there are just as many bikes, joggers, skateboards and so on. The area is like a gym rather than a community gathering place. There are many street festivals but they are all associated with business districts and appear to be just another way to sell product. We are given the illusion of it being a community event, and indeed there are opportunities for people to stroll and talk, but many are from outside the area and it is clear that if sales go down the festivals will be canceled. All very different than festivals and plazas in rural Mexico.

Welcome back and get on with forgetting things.

I am posting this after another six month stay in Mexico and the adjustment to “home” seems less dramatic. Not sure why.